Past posh resorts, past stunning beaches, lies the rich cultural history and stark beauty of ancient Hawai’i. Take a trek back in time on an eco tour.

It requires sturdy shoes to step into ancient Hawai’i. The Nakalele/Kahakuloa eco tour starts at Nakalele Point, where hikers pick their way through an ancient lava flow. In this stark, brutal moonscape, the lava can look like icing or a honeycomb or black lace. Then the eco tour van heads east on a one-lane dirt road to Kahakuloa Valley. Where the road ends, a swinging bridge beckons you into lush jungle. The footpath wanders to the home of Oliver and Val Dukelow, native Hawaiians who grow taro (an edible tuber) as their ancestors have for 1,000 years.