| Kaimikaua teaches me the basics of surfing on the sand; we run into the ocean and paddle way out to try my luck at catching a wave. "Just remember not to kick the reef. You'll kill it if you do," Kaimkaua gently reminds me. I surprise myself and manage to catch a wave and successfully ride it in, on my first try. Although the wave barely qualifies as one, I still get a rush. After getting many more and riding most of them successfully, I understand why surfers get themselves up so early in the morning and charge into the often chilly waters of our local beaches. This can quickly become habit forming, I think. Dozens of waves later, despite the fun and exhilaration (no matter how small the wave), my paddle-weary arms can no longer take it so I head back to shore. I know I will be back out there soon enough; I have been bitten by the surfing bug.
While I came to Hawaii craving adventure, I only have four days to enjoy two islands, so I try to pace myself. After a morning of surfing, my tired body still craves adventure:of the luxury spa variety. Located on the grounds of the Royal Hawaiian, Abhasa Spa, meaning "illusion" in Sanskrit, is just the answer to soothe and rejuvenate my spirit. My treatment of choice, the traditional Hawaiian Lomi Lomi massage, transports me to another state of being. The beautifully manicured spa grounds includes four outdoor cabanas, one of which I am able to call my own for the next hour. The air is filled with the heady scents of lemongrass, mango and coconut oils, mixed in with the fresh smell of the ocean breeze. It smells so good I can just about eat it with a spoon. My masseuse goes to work on my knots and stress points as I melt into a parallel universe. I am occasionally brought back down to earth by the gentle sound of the breeze rustling through the trees and the pleasant songs of local birds. Certainly my perception of reality is altered for these moments, even if it is all an illusion.
Now I have worked up an appetite. With panoramic views of both sides of Waikiki, the Hanohano Room at the top of the Sheraton Waikiki offers one of the best all-around dining experiences on the island. Being the highest vantage point on Waikiki Beach, if you can snag a table at sunset, you have a recipe for a breathtaking evening. Fresh off a face-lift, the dining area offers both tables and booths, situated so there's not a bad seat in the house. Once you experience the food, you'll realize that the showy location is simply a bonus. The menu covers all sorts of Hawaiian-influenced dishes from steak to seafood. If you manage to save room for dessert, which I highly recommend, the Kula Strawberries Sabayon is a must-have.
I wander back to my room at the Royal Hawaiian. Built in 1927, The Royal Hawaiian exudes the glamour and opulence that defined Old Waikiki. Dubbed the "Pink Palace of the Pacific," for obvious reasons, its unique Moorish-Spanish design with its attention-grabbing coral pink exterior has earned The Royal Hawaiian an almost celebrity status, making it one of the most distinguished landmarks on Waikiki Beach. Rightfully so, considering in its 77 years in operation. The hotel has been frequented by royalty, presidents and Hollywood stars alike.
The Royal Hawaiian has over 500 rooms, most of which are in the main building. Those rooms and suites vary in size and layout, but whatever way you slice it, the grandeur that emanates from the Pink Palace sets it apart from many of the hotels that populate the area. Its Tower Wing has just completed an $8.2 million dollar renovation that has completely changed its look, bringing it more in line with the old Hawaiian elegance that dominates the main rooms.
Although this historic hotel is located in the middle of the long string of hotels that line Waikiki Beach, its expansive, well-landscaped grounds offer an escape from the hustle and bustle while still offering excellent access to all that Waikiki has to offer. However, you may not find a need to stray very far from its stately grounds. There are multiple dining options, a Royal Luau held on the ocean lawn every Monday and Thursday, shops, and an oceanfront pool, as well as the full service Abhasa Spa that offers natural, organic treatments.
Day two brings another Hawaiian adventure - swimming with dolphins. As I waddle at an awkwardly fast pace in my flippers towards the stern of the Island Spirit, struggling to get my mask and snorkel in order, I can hear our marine biologist guides at Wild Side Specialty Tours eagerly shouting at us to jump into the ocean pronto. "The pod is making its way back towards us," they say. "Hurry before they pass us!" This is my first experience being in the water with a dolphin, much less an entire pod. I am so excited that I let out a squeal of delight as I stick my masked face underwater to see two dolphins swiftly make their way through the water about 20 feet below me. I keep repeating to myself what I had been told onboard the boat before we set sail. Be one with the dolphin, don't swim at them, swim with them as if you belong with them. So, I make like a dolphin. I keep swimming right alongside them as they make their way along whatever course they have in mind. A young dolphin seems intrigued by the clicking and winding of my underwater camera so I do some stupid human tricks and twirl about for him, doing my best "dolphin." Perhaps he is amused, perhaps he isn't, all I know is that I am in paradise. Sometimes I lose the pod (spinner dolphins swim like the wind) but not for long because our guides wave at those of us looking lost and flail their arms pointing to where our pod has gone. After being in the water for what seems like hours, I become waterlogged and my tired legs tell me it is time to get back on board the boat. Swimming with the dolphins and having the rest of the world fall away leaves me feeling that there's nothing to equal the experience of becoming a (temporary) member of the pod.
Off to Maui
It is easy for me to get lost in the winding maze of pools that make up the recreation area of the Westin Maui. This aquatic playground is made of five free-form swimming pools that cover 87,000 square feet, complete with waterfalls, secluded Jacuzzis and waterslides that rival those found in water parks. One of the slides consists of a series of 270-degree turns that propel kids and adults alike along an exhilarating (and sometimes wedgie-inducing) ride that ends with a 23-foot drop. After going down the slide so many times the lifeguard knew my name, I eventually made my way to the adults-only pool to drift around and relax undisturbed with a mai tai to keep me company.
With renovation seeming to be the theme at many of Hawaii's top hotels, the Westin Maui doesn't want to be left out. Just recently having finished a massive $19 million upgrade that garnered it a AAA Four Diamond rating, the hotel followed that by sprucing up the open-air lobby. Thankfully, they left the waterfalls, flamingos and other exotic wildlife. Part of the renovation is Westin's signature Heavenly Bed, with pillow-top mattresses, super soft sheets and fluffy goosedown pillows, that take center stage in each room. I think I actually slept better than I do at home.
The new spa at the Westin Maui, aptly named The Spa, just opened last month with great fanfare, considering it is poised to be the prototype for all future Westin spas around the world. Home to over a dozen treatment rooms, steam rooms and saunas, a yoga studio, a fancy workout room (the kind where each piece of cardio equipment has its own TV screen) and the requisite panoramic ocean view, The Spa seeks to compete with the best.
With all of the activities that Maui has to offer, you can easily spend much of your time out and about, but it's always nice to have a hotel that will make you reconsider getting up before sunrise to climb Haleakala. But, groggy as I am, when I see the sunrise over the ocean as I sit atop the world's largest dormant volcano, Mt. Haleakala, I know why others have suggested that I take the sunrise tour.
After the arrival of the sun restores my energy, I am ready to mount my trusty two-wheeled steed, which I affectionately name Squeaky, and start the 38-mile journey down the volcano. While this may sound impressive, it's not called the Haleakala Downhill for nothing - there's only about 400 yards of actual pedaling. With no need no channel my inner Lance Armstrong, I can concentrate on taking in the stunning views of the island. That and making sure I don't rub tires with the rider in front of me or ride off the cliff. Although you start the trek in a stylish yellow windbreaker (provided), several eco-systems later, by the time breakfast rolls around, it's all about the shorts and tank. From a barren moonscape to a lush Maui beach, you not only feel a sense of accomplishment looking back at the tiny speck of an observatory where you started, but a deeper connection to the island of Maui.
I think about this as I walk into the open and airy lobby of the Kapalua Bay Hotel and am greeted by a grand sweeping view of the Maui coastline, ocean and beyond to the islands of Molokai and Lanai. This alone makes me weak in the knees.
Racking up multiple top ratings on numerous travel lists, Kapalua Bay Hotel & Ocean Villas has earned the prestige that goes along with its name. For the past five years, the hotel has been named one of the Top 25 Hawaii Hotels by Travel & Leisure, it has made the Gold List several times in Condé Nast Traveler, and the list goes on. And on. The Travel Channel has voted the hotel's namesake, Kapalua Bay, "Best Beach in America."The crescent-shaped sandy cove is hugged by lava flows and protected from large waves and rough waters by offshore reef formations. This equation also makes for crystal clear turquoise waters that are filled with dazzling tropical fish, making it a great spot for snorkeling. In the winter months, humpback whales can be seen spouting offshore. Kapalua Bay's perfection makes it seem as if the beach itself was designed by architects. I could float in it for hours.
Kapalua is known as one of the finest golf resorts in the world and has the accolades to prove it. Kapalua is ranked in the top 30 of the "Top 100 Golf Resorts in the World, 2003" and listed as one of the "50 Best Golf Resorts in North America" in 2001 and 2002 by Condé Nast Traveler. The resort community is the setting for three award-winning 18-hole golf courses, one of which is home to the PGA Tour's Mercedes Championship each January and all three of which have been named among the top seven courses in Hawaii by Golf Digest. In addition to the world-class courses, there is the state-of-the-art Kapalua Golf Academy, offering a full range of instructional programs. How lucky for me, considering my game isn't exactly up to snuff. At least the view served as a welcome distraction from my less than awe-inspiring swing. Surround-ed by 23,000 acres of pineapple plantations, Kapalua and its golf courses are nestled in scenery that has to be seen to be believed.
Scenery is what Maui is all about. And although it's only a short drive from the upscale resorts that line the coast of Kapalua, Maui, the Maunalei Arboretum seems to transport you to another place and time entirely. This special place, established 70 years ago by Maui plantation manager D. T. Fleming, is set off the beaten track and accessible only to the outfit hosting the hike, Maui Eco-Adventures. Ryan Murphy, my guide for the day's journey, is eager to start the hike and share his wealth of knowledge about this undisturbed and pristine arboretum. The easy four-mile trek weaves through lush foliage and exotic plants, all of which have an interesting history or amusing anecdote about them. Soon we come across a massive, sinewy tree and are told to take a careful walk around its springy root system, resisting the urge to bounce. As it turns out, this ancient banyan tree, called Palawanesis and earning the nickname "trampoline tree,"has an intricate woven surface root system and over the years as the soil below eroded, the elevated root system remained stretched above the forest floor. We reach the end of the trail overlooking the Pu'u Kukui watershed, taking a moment of silence to observe the wild, natural beauty of the reserve and reflect upon the tranquility that surrounds us. All I can hear, besides the occasional bird, is the sound of silence. On our way back, picking up and eating the guavas that dot the path, I feel a connection to the earth, not wanting to leave this enchanting place. Once we get back to the van, lunch is prepared, and I eat sitting under the shade of a tree, looking out over the pineapple plantation and ocean stretched out before me, feeling the warm breeze on my face, far removed from the civilization that exists below me.
Oahu information
- www.hhsurf.com or call (808) 924-7778
- Abhasa Waikiki Spa, visit www.abhasa.com.
- Royal Hawaiian: (800) 325-3535. Visit www.royal-hawaiian.com.
- Visit www.WildSideHawaii.com or call (808) 306-7273 for reservations. Wild Side Specialty Tours proceeds benefit the Oahu Wild Dolphin Foundation.
Maui information
- Maui Downhill Bike Tours: (800) 535-BIKE or at www.mauidownhill.com.
- Maui Eco-Adventures: (877) 661-7720 or visit www.ecomaui.com for information on their many excursions.
- Kapalua Bay Hotel & Ocean Villas: (808) 669-5656 or visit www.kapaluabayhotel.com
- Westin Maui: (808) 931-4655 or visit www.westinmaui.com.
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